Thursday, November 11, 2010

The Mughal era of bride...........




The Mughal era in India brought richness to textiles and costumes, the Ari work or Zardosi work is a type of hand embroidery to be introduced in medieval times during the governance of Muhammed Bin Tughlak. The embroidery done on silk sarees, satin is known as Zardosi. Zardosi work is done by laying the color threads mostly gold threads over the material and is very heavy when the weight of the fabric and the metal wire used for embroidery are combined. Zardosi sarees displayed the beauty that combined with wealth, but today other metals are used instead of gold.
The earlier artisans of zardosi used only exclusive Resham thread and wire hand embroidery on materials. The designs were original or mainly made according to the current trends are of royal taste. Zardosi work purely display the Wealth in the garments worn by men and women.
Today, the Zardosi Sari, Zardosi Designs is well-known and fashionable hand embroidery and purely reflect the traditions. Zardosi Embroidery is the results of amazing talent in the designs and needlework. It has also become a part of the Indian bridal couture. The Bollywood is also not behind to accept Zari Zardosi work to reflect its richness, whether she may be a Madhuri dixit in didi tera devar deewana songs or Hema malini in Baghban.
Zardosi Designs and Zardosi Sarees is well know to the world. The zardosi karigar or Zardosi artisan sits on the floor behind the wooden equipment working on a piece of saree or cloths held taut with two long pieces of wood and thread to enable him to work easily. The speed, at which hands move, with a small pancil like curved needle at the tip, is simply amazing. “This frame we use to tie the cloth so that the material is stiff while we are doing the handwork or embroidery” says Mohini. Zardosi work requires lot of patience and skill that is the reason it is costlier than any other garments. Every needle is generally given numbered such as numbered nine etc.
Most of the zardosi workers or zardosi karigar in Navsari are women. These women can be trained on the job. This is an effort to make women financially independent. An average women zardosi workers or zardosi karigar can earn upto 1000 to 4000 in a month.
Zardosi design is charged as per the design and the material used for handwork or embroidery. They use variety of material zari, sequence, coree, beeds, or the shiny stones which look like diamonds. The zardosi work is designed according to the need or budget. Simple zardosi work charged less than heavy zardosi work. For bridal wear, the budget costing from ten thousand to twenty thousand.
The materials used to do the Zardosi work are bought from the main city market at wholesale rates. The material is also varies from quality to quality. The small work takes a day to be completed, where the exclusive work takes take up to ten days.

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